Introduction
I won the Wonderland Lottery for 2024 but I was given the last window to make an itinerary before reservations were open to the public. I spent weeks logging on before my reservation window to check what was available. I built itineraries just to see them disappear the next day.
I gave up trying to find a trip in August. However, based on the historically low snowpack winter 2023-2024 I looked to July to steal an early-season trip. As 7:00 a.m. approached the morning of my reservation window I was extremely nervous.
After successfully making my reservation, I couldn't believe I got a six-night itinerary spanning the west and north sides of the Wonderland that included Klapatche Park, Golden Lakes, and Mystic Lake.
This series of posts is about my amazing six-night trip on the Wonderland Trail's west and north sides in mid-July 2024.
Day 4: Golden Lakes to Eagles Roost Camp
Destination:
Getting Started
Two of my three big concerns would be at play today. Starting the trip I had three things I was worried about but wouldn't have an answer for until we were on the trail.
The first was crossing the North and South Mowich Rivers. Both crossings could have bridges washed out. Subsequently, both crossings could be messy and require us to figure things out. We wouldn't know until we got to the crossings. Today, we were crossing those rivers.
The second concern was whether or not the road to Mowich Lake would open on Friday, July 12 (today, Day 4). This trip, and our group, relied on the road opening the day it was estimated to open. The road to Mowich Lake needed to be open because my uncle needed to leave and my brother needed to drive a car up with our food resupply. Then, my brother would join the trip, taking my uncle's place for the last two nights. Mowich Lake has a ranger station, parking lot, and campsites, and is one of the few places you can drive into Mount Rainier National Park without needing a timed-entry permit. If the road did not open on the estimated date, my brother would need to hike four miles in from the Paul Peak Trailhead.
The third concern was the snow in Spray Park, but we wouldn't deal with that until day 5.
Despite these concerns, I slept great the night before hunkered in the trees at Golden Lakes Camp. I got up around 6:00 a.m. It was already a beautiful day and I walked up to the overlook for breakfast.
Not everyone was pumped about getting going early. However, it was necessary with the long day ahead and we broke camp about 7:15 a.m.
The Hike
We still needed to deal with the bear while leaving camp. It may still be in the meadow outside the Golden Lakes Ranger Cabin, slowing our start, or, hopefully, it would be gone. Cresting the small rise before the meadow, I saw no bear. We cruised out of camp starting our traverse of the ridge before dropping down to the Mowich Rivers.
Looking back, it was too bad we didn't explore more of the Golden Lakes area. Leaving, we passed a few glassy lakes and sub-alpine meadows that were quiet and lit beautifully for the day.
It was wonderful to be out on the trail early. The morning was a little crisp with sun and blue sky. The trail was gradual and soft. We had a good time descending the soft switchbacks on the south side of the valley talking about the odd things people end up discussing on the trail. The trees were giant, some of the biggest Western Hemlock and Western Red Cedar I had seen on the whole trail. This provided a great canopy with areas of sparse underbrush as we approached the bottom section of the descent.
We hiked just under six miles before approaching the valley bottom before the first crossing. It was right about 10:00 a.m., which was a good time. Before crossing we wanted to find water because there had not been any on the descent and it was unclear to me when our next available water would be before Mowich Lake.
There were a few water sources to filter from before crossing. The one we chose was located at 46.90757 N -121.89227 W.
Crossing the South Mowich River
Getting to the crossings in the morning meant the water levels would not be as high. The heat melted a lot of snow and the rivers swell in the afternoon making crossing more dangerous. We talked to a solo backpacker the day before at North Puyallup River Camp whose crossing was a bit scarier than he signed up for.
We heard from others that the park service had placed ribbons to follow, as well as cairns, downed trees, etc. to help guide travelers between the crossings. Approaching the South Mowich we found an easily fordable braid.
Although taking our boots off to cross would be easy we spent some time going up the river to find a log to cross. We came across a ribbon on a log marking the crossing.
The crossing was messy with multiple downed trees and branches sticking in all directions. I decided to maneuver through the mess but my uncle and cousin went back to take their boots off and cross. The water was not deep and the only risk at play was whether or not we would get our feet wet.
After crossing the first braid we worked across the river bed following rocks laid in a row to mark the trail. It was hot surrounded by all the rocks.
We found an old bridge leading across a small part of the river. Following the ribbons again led us to the sketchiest part of the crossing. The second braid of the South Mowich was a narrow, deep, and fast-moving channel. The crossing was a fallen log.
A confident hiker could scurry across the log in a matter of seconds. Instead, we decided to butt-scoot our way across. Despite the narrow section, this was a pretty dangerous crossing. The water was moving fast, and it was unclear how deep the channel was. Additionally, downed logs and trees fell into the channel further down making any recovery or rescue a mess.
Although we butt-scooted across the log, we would not have had the chance to do it the day before in the afternoon. Observing the banks of the river you could see the high water mark from the previous day well above the current height of the river. Our legs would have dangled in the water that would now be higher, wider, and stronger. This was why getting to the crossing in the morning was so important.
I was thankful we made it across South Mowich with no incidents. However, I had been thinking about the North Mowich crossing ever since the backpacker told us on day 1 that the bridge was out.
Crossing the North Mowich River
We continued to follow the ribbons, new trails, old trails, and markers through the forested area between the crossings. The area between the North Mowich and South Mowich crossings keeps you guessing.
The South Mowich River Camp was not where I had it on my map. We stumbled on it somewhere in the trees. This was the one camp I didn't check out. The area was not very appealing and I think the water source is on the other side of the South Mowich crossing.
We saw a deer bounding around down by one of the braids of the North Mowich. Amazingly, this was the only deer I would see in seven days on the trail.
Weaving in and out of the trees we got closer to the North Mowich Crossing. Water was spilling out over the rocks obscuring what I thought was the trail. Following one last ribbon we were now out on the rocks nearing the North Mowich. To my endless delight and surprise, the North Mowich Bridge was in!
Back in March, I read a report of someone hiking down to this crossing and confirming the bridge was in. I was shocked to hear it washed away the day we started, but the backpacker who told us the bridge was out was mistaken. I'm not sure if she heard the bridge was out or if she ended up at the wrong crossing but she had turned around on bad information.
This is the most impressive and harrowing log bridge I've crossed on the Wonderland. It's a lot longer than it looks and it is reinforced with vertical logs at two different points. The deck is slightly at an angle with the railings leaning suspiciously out to one side. Crossing the log going clockwise on the Wonderland means you are slowly getting higher and higher above the fast-moving water of the North Mowich. My uncle took a video of my crossing. I held my hands out to each side to help with balance. He started the video after I had begun walking and I counted 27 steps. I probably took about 40 steps to cross the log bridge.
We had already been on the trail for almost five hours, crossing multiple rivers, and were less than halfway done with our day. We took a break in the trees on the north side of the Mowich Rivers and prepared for our climb up to Mowich Lake.
North Mowich to Mowich Lake
Our big climb for the day would take us from the North Mowich River up to the connecting trail with Mowich Lake. Then, we would take a detour to Mowich Lake and see if the road was open. Finally, after stopping at Mowich Lake we would make a short trip over to Eagles Roost Camp.
I was hoping we would come across water sources but I couldn't say for certain how many or where. That said, I knew we would have a chance to get water at Mowich Lake in a few miles.
The trail was steep starting out but after backpacking for a few days we were getting used to the grind. I was happy to come across a little water after climbing for one mile. Then, again, around two miles from the North Mowich crossing.
We were making good time on the hike, and despite how many miles we hiked it was still fairly early in the day. The trail on the second part of this climb is perfect. It's not as steep, it's shaded, and is conducive to hiking poles. Likewise, the forest is wonderful. I remembered thinking multiple times about how great the hiking was.
We weren't too far off from Mowich Lake when we started hearing water rushing. About 0.5 miles from Mowich Lake I was shocked by how much water was available at Carter Creek.
Carter Creek is fed by the outlet of Mowich Lake and there was plenty of cool and clear water to enjoy. We stopped here for a while to eat, rest, and cool off. It was a great spot in the trees. I checked my hiking stats at Carter Creek. We had hiked 9.75 miles in 6 hours.
Mowich Lake Road Opening
I still wasn't fully enjoying myself. We hadn't seen many hikers or backpackers, and I forgot to ask the trail crew we passed if the Mowich Road was open. It was weighing on my mind. It would mess up our plans if the road did not open today.
After our break at the creek, we started up toward Mowich Lake. The break was a bit too long and my legs felt pretty tired. Mowich Lake is a small detour from the Wonderland Trail. Still, we saw no one after splitting off the Wonderland and heading in the direction of the lake. Now, I was getting nervous. How could the road be open and no one is up here?
I remember from 2017 that the trail dropped down from the lake area so we wouldn't be able to see the parking lot until we got there. Reaching the end of the trail to Mowich Lake I walked out of the woods into the gravel area near the bathrooms and Mowich Lake Camp. Taking a few more steps I turned to get a look at the parking lot. It was packed! There were so many cars and people walking around. I turned to high-five my uncle. I have never been so happy to see a packed trailhead parking lot. Two of my three big worries for the trip were now behind me.
Mowich Lake
The Mowich Lake backcountry camp pushes up against the forest, past the parking lot and lake. It's the first thing I saw when came off the trail and into the open. The backcountry camp looks like a bad front-country camp. Campsites are lined up next to each other on the gravel in the open sun. There is zero privacy and zero shade. However, it provides extra inventory for people struggling to complete their itinerary.
Across the gravel lot that holds the Mowich Lake campsites is a trail to the east side of the lake. The trail continues around the lake to the ranger station. Behind the ranger station is the Mowich Lake food cache. There was no ranger stationed when I walked over to drop off a Croc sandal we found crossing the South Mowich.
The lake had overtaken the trail in the early season snow melt. Families that had driven up for the day to enjoy the sunshine and the insanely clear lake were out in the water, on the shore, or paddling around in floaties.
It was weird to be around so many people again. We smelled perfume, regular food, and sunscreen. People were wearing tank tops, and sandals, and carrying coolers. We saw only a handful of people on our trip up the west side of the Wonderland the last few nights. It was, actually, nice to have a little taste of civilization again.
We sat in the shade by the backcountry pit toilets. Each of us used the large, clean backcountry toilets near the campsites. Also, I walked over and dropped my garbage from the last four days into the bear-resistant garbage cans. After another nice rest, it was time to head over to Eagles Roost Camp.
Mowich Lake to Eagles Roost
After all the miles we had hiked today, another two miles to Eagles Roost sounded short. Similarly, the trail looked relatively flat on the map. Leaving Mowich Lake I eagerly started asking hikers about Spray Park, thinking many of them had come from further up the trail. Luckily, a friendly ranger was coming up the trail and answered my questions. He said, yes, there was snow, but we would be fine using the gear we had. This was, again, great news. All of my worries for the trip were seemingly answered in a few-hour stretch.
The trail was crowded. Adults and teenagers ran down and back, having conversations, and quickly examining our gear with their eyes as we crossed paths.
A mile from Mowich Lake the Wonderland crosses Lee Creek, which has multiple streams to stop and filter from. Reading a trip report after our trip was over, someone had seen a bear just up the creek on the same day we were there.
I stopped to filter some water. The trail felt surprisingly difficult. I was tired. I think it was the multiple long breaks we had taken. Additionally, we were now up over 10 miles for the day and a few thousand feet of elevation gain. When we reached the popular viewpoint (Eagle's Roost Viewpoint? I can't remember the name) I considered not even hiking down to take a look, but we did hike down to take a look. The viewpoint has wooden rails around a rock outcropping offering a nice view of the "Mowich" face on Mount Rainier.
Every small incline in the trail was starting to feel like a push. I kept thinking, how have we not hit the campground yet? Eventually, I saw the tents below and took the steep trail down the Eagles Roost Camp. Stopping my GPS for the day, the stats read:
Length: 12.91 miles
Duration: 8 hours 34 minutes
Asc.: 3,510 ft.
Desc.: 3,544 ft.
Max. Alt: 5,095 ft.
Min. Alt: 2,613 ft.
Eagles Roost Camp
We were exhausted. I think we sat down and ate a "warm-up" dinner before setting up. I packed an extra 2,500 calories in an extra food bag. I dropped my hand in and pulled out some chili-mac as an appetizer.
I've heard the placement of Eagles Roost Camp called "ingenious." It's a great camp, positioned below the trail on a flat area near the edge of the valley wall. The trees are thin, but there are plenty of them, providing ample shade. Its location up on the valley wall means a nice breeze moves through the trees depending on the time of day.
It was surprising to see so many people in camp. Only a few spots were left as many other campers arrived earlier in the day. We picked a site in the center of the camp where we could fit two tents. I had to hang my hammock over some downed logs, which was fine because stepping on the logs meant I wasn't stepping on bushes or other shrubs. The better sites were taken but this one would work.
Eagles Roost is built on a hill. The toilet is further down the hill making the trek a bit of an endeavor. There's also a campsite down near the toilet, which has more privacy but is oddly close to the toilet. It wasn't my favorite backcountry toilet experience.
After not seeing any rangers during our previous days on the entire westside of the Wonderland Trail, we had now talked to two different rangers in the two-mile stretch between Mowich Lake and Eagles Roost. The second ranger was stopping at campsites in Eagles Roost Camp and checking permits. We would see him for the next couple of days.
Water
The water source for camp is up the hill and just a tenth of a mile further down the trail. It's called Grant Creek. The water there was clear and cold. The only issue is having to climb the steep trail out of Eagles Roost to get back to the Wonderland. We paired our water trip with our trip to Spray Falls, which made the climb out of camp worth it.
Bear Pole
There are, maybe, 3 or 4 bear poles at Eagle's Roost. I think it's because of the hills. Our camp was right next to a bear pole, there was a bear pole down the hill towards the toilet and another on the opposite side of camp. It was nice having the bear pole so close.
Spray Falls
We set up camp and prepared to hike the short distance to Spray Falls, which was our side trip at Eagles Roost Camp. I had been looking forward to Spray Falls all day. I didn't have a chance to rinse off or soak my feet the day before at Golden Lakes and we had just completed a 13-mile day. I knew the water would be cold coming down off Spray Falls and I was ready to experience every bit of it.
I didn't track the GPS hike to Spray Falls, but it's about 0.2 mi from Eagles Roost Camp on a relatively flat trail. Arriving at Spray Falls we hiked down and out onto the rocks where we performed some interesting rock traversing moves to get to the other side of the water. The other side of the water from where the trail comes in was still in the sun at 6:00 p.m. It allowed better access to small pools to wade in and rocks to lay our clothes out on. Surprisingly, no one else was down at the water when we went.
It was a glorious afternoon. Although getting late, the sun was still warm and I found a small pool to rinse off. I stripped down, sat in the pool, and looked out down the river. Or, I could glance over my right shoulder and look up at the curtain of water falling down from Spray Falls. The water was refreshing and felt like our reward for the day.
We spent maybe a half hour at the falls before scrambling up the trail and heading back to Eagles Roost. We stopped at Grant Creek to fill up on water on the way back.
Back at Camp
Feeling refreshed, it was time to eat our second dinner of the evening. I hung some clothes up to dry and we spent a lot of time just sitting around camp. The trees filtered light making the rays look righteous streaming through camp. As the sun set, red light hit Mount Rainier, which was only barely visible in parts through the trees.
I was prepared to sleep well, again. The next morning, I planned to wake up early and hike back toward Mowich Lake to meet my brother who would be driving in my uncle's car, as well as bringing in a food resupply for my cousin and me. This was my uncle's last night, which was too bad. He would hike with us tomorrow into Spray Park before making his way back to Mowich and driving his car out. On the other hand, it would be nice to have my brother, Jordan, join us for the final two nights on the trail.