A dinosaur
a blog by Jarrett Retz

Halfway Around the Wonderland: Mystic Lake to Sunrise, Day 7

by Jarrett RetzNovember 27th, 2024

Introduction

I won the Wonderland Lottery for 2024 but I was given the last window to make an itinerary before reservations were open to the public. I spent weeks logging on before my reservation window to check what was available. I built itineraries just to see them disappear the next day.

I gave up trying to find a trip in August. However, based on the historically low snowpack winter 2023-2024 I looked to July to steal an early-season trip. As 7:00 a.m. approached the morning of my reservation window I was extremely nervous.

After successfully making my reservation, I couldn't believe I got a six-night itinerary spanning the west and north sides of the Wonderland that included Klapatche Park, Golden Lakes, and Mystic Lake.

This series of posts is about my amazing six-night trip on the Wonderland Trail's west and north sides in mid-July 2024.

    Day 7: Mystic Camp to Sunrise

    Destination:

    Getting Started

    I felt a bit of a chill while trying to sleep early in the morning. Mystic Lake Camp is around 5,500 ft. elevation and the temperature dropped to 42°F. This was pushing the limit of my underquilt, but as long as it stayed under me, I was fine. I woke up before 6:00 a.m. I was drawn out of my hammock by the sunlight on the rocks of Old Desolate.

    I only slept with my rainfly over my hammock for two nights. Similarly, Jordan spent two nights on the trail and didn't use his rainfly either night. That gives an idea of just how nice the weather was. The two nights I did use my rainfly weren't even for rain.

    I requested we hit the trail early today due to the longer hike out and then drive home. Thankfully, the other two were ok with that and we were all up early. The bathroom at Mystic Camp is pretty bad, even in the morning. I tried, but, I just couldn't. I resolved to figure it out later.

    The Hike

    Although we were hiking out today, we still had about nine miles and a couple of hills to climb. The trail would take us over two creeks, the West Fork of the White River and Winthrop Creek. After crossing Winthrop Creek we would start climbing. First to Granite Creek, then all the way to the saddle near Skyscraper Mountain.

    Clearing the saddle we would descend into Berkeley Park and traverse the park until we climbed up the other side near Frozen Lake. After Frozen Lake we would fight the crowds on the trails near Sunrise to the parking lot and my car.

    We were on the trail at 8:00 a.m. The trail was soft and moving downhill allowing us to make nice progress. Soon, we crossed over the West Fork of the White River twice. We didn't need water, but there were two crossings here where we could have filtered some.

    We left the trees and shuffled down an exposed bank to cross the West Fork White River one more time. This area had a huge washout many years ago and the trail cuts into the gravel bank and up the other side.

    Before crossing Winthrop Creek we made our way over the large boulders and rocky trail, possibly a glacial moraine, which offered nice views of Mount Rainier between the small evergreens.

    Crossing Winthrop Creek was interesting. The log footbridge was in but was wet from the day before when water was higher and running over the middle of the bridge. The creek was running fast but we managed the crossing and took a break on the other side.

    Winthrop Creek to Granite Creek

    We started climbing on the other side of Winthrop Creek. Making our way past Garda Falls we kept our eye on Winthrop Glacier examining the glacier and looking up for rock fall when we heard crashing.

    I was lucky enough to be taking a picture of the glacier the moment a rock was falling from the top. In the picture, the small rock is surrounded by dust as it just begins to slide off the top ridge before falling down into the water below.

    The climb out and up from Winthrop Creek is fairly steep at the beginning but becomes more gradual opening up into a lovely forested area halfway to Granite Creek. It was on this climb my brother said, yes, it's hard to imagine how difficult it would have been to make this climb at the end of the day yesterday if we didn't get our camp switched from Granite Creek Camp to Mystic Camp.

    I knew we would take a break and Granite Creek. The creek is reliable and runs cool and clear. Arriving at the creek we found places to sit in the water and cool off.

    We took an extended break at Granite Creek. The water was so cold and the area was peaceful. The climb from Granite Creek to the saddle below Skyscraper wouldn't be that bad. I remember the trail being gradual and conducive to hiking poles.

    Viewpoint Near Skyscraper Mountain

    One of the most impressive views of Mount Rainier is the area below Skyscraper Mountain at the saddle between the incline from Granite Creek and Berkeley Park. The trail climbs out of the trees and into green meadows as the landscape transitions from sub-alpine to alpine.

    The views are in all directions. Jordan set up his chair in the sun and I took my pack off as we waited for Brent to join us.

    Suddenly, I saw movement in the rocks just above our position: a marmot! In seven days on the Wonderland Trail, this was the first marmot I had seen.

    It's a popular place to hike and take in views of the mountain. An older couple, also in chairs, had a large camera and seemed to be photographing the mountain and pointing out groups of climbers to each other. We, too, used my brother's binoculars to spot climbers heading up the snowy slopes.

    Brent caught up and set up his chair next to Jordan's. We drank water, applied sunscreen, and ate some food. It's one of the best views I know on the Wonderland Trail.

    Brent bet me I couldn't run up Skyscraper Mountain from where we sat in less than ten minutes. I told him he was probably right. Jordan, however, decided to take the bet and I said I would buy him a beer if he could get to the top in under ten minutes.

    We started timing and Jordan took off down the trail in a jog. The trail drops slightly before starting the incline to the summit. He had a nice jog going until the incline. From the start of the incline, he hollered back at us, "Nope!". He came to the conclusion I had from the saddle, there's no way.

    He kept climbing, however, and I used his binoculars to track him as he made his way up the trail. After five minutes Brent and I were convinced he couldn't break the ten-minute mark and it would take him twenty minutes, probably.

    A couple of girls came up the trail and told us how they talked to a guy who claimed to have seen a cougar or two near Mystic Lake the day before. We had been at Mystic Lake the day before and were interested in the here-say. We told them about our companion on his hopeless journey up Skyscraper Mountain.

    Keeping an eye on my watch, and an eye on Jordan, he had only a few minutes to complete his challenge. Brent and I were quiet for a bit. Brent used his phone to zoom in to find Jordan's location on Skyscraper. I used the binoculars. As the timer ticked over eight minutes, meaning Jordan had two minutes to finish his climb, Brent and I began to realize he might do it. Remarkably, he was very close to the top and with less than a minute to go, he was practically at the peak.

    Reaching the peak he turned to wave to us. He beat the ten-minute challenge. The timer was, maybe, at 9 minutes and 42 seconds, I can't remember. Brent and I were shocked.

    It would take a little while for Jordan to make his way back. When he did, and we told him he climbed it in less than ten minutes he was surprised! He assumed it took him around twelve minutes or so.

    Due to our little challenge up Skyscraper and the amazing views, we spent more time resting than I thought we would, but again, it all seemed worthwhile. We had a couple of miles left to Sunrise.

    Berkeley Park

    Finally, we left our perch near Skyscraper. The trail is rocky and partially shaded on the other side of the saddle. A small, and slightly dangerous little snow patch remained in the shade. All groups we watched took it slow, including ours.

    We lost our view of Mount Rainier dropping into Berkeley Park. However, it's hard to think about Mount Rainier because Berkley Park is so scenic. The trail through the park is exposed since trees don't grow as well above 6,000 ft. It's dry, soft, and gradual. Today was a Monday, but many people were still out enjoying the great weather.

    Working down off the hill towards the creek running through Berkeley Park I kept an eye out for mountain goats in the green meadows or the brown dusty patches that dotted the meadows. I know this is where the goats like to hang out. Despite not seeing any goats, we saw a herd of people across the valley making their way up to the Fremont Fire Lookout.

    An unmarked creek flows out of the southwest corner of the park through a culvert. This water eventually flows into Lodi Creek which continues down into the park. I stopped to filter some water, thankfully, because it was the last best source we saw until Sunrise.

    Stopping in the center of the park on the south end, looking north, the park is an amphitheater. On stage left is Skyscraper Mountain, and opposite Skyscraper Mountain is Mount Fremont. The meadow, in the middle, is light green disappearing into dark green evergreens.

    The Northern Loop Trail zig-zags through the meadow, eventually paralleling Lodi Creek as it heads towards Grand Park. Turning around, you might see hikers on their way to Burroughs, way up on the exposed trails.

    Frozen Lake to Sunrise

    My GPS tracking messed up shortly after entering Berkeley Park, but the mileage for the day would be around nine miles. Climbing up and out of Berkeley Park was hot but we were almost to Sunrise and this was truly the last incline.

    The crowds got thicker around Frozen Lake. We chose to stay high on the trail and not drop to Shadow Lake, taking the Burroughs Mountain/Mount Fremont Lookout Trail.

    We passed a group of older ladies wearing crowns and tutus. We wished one happy birthday as we went by. People had large cameras, smelled like cologne and perfume and some wore jeans. I looked at my phone and realized I had service! I called my wife and spoke to her and my daughter letting them know I was almost done and missed them.

    We could see Sunrise Lodege and made our way gently down the gravel trails near Sunrise, which can sometimes cause boots to slide out from under you.

    It was strange to think I was at Sunrise one week ago dropping off my car. Time passes differently in the backcountry and on the trail.

    My GPS isn't correct. It stopped in Berkeley Park and then tracked a straight line (as the crow flies) from the place it lost connection to Sunrise. I'll show what my GPS file read and what I estimated my hike to be.

    GPS (with error)

    • Length: 8.46 miles
    • Duration: 6 hours 23 minutes
    • Asc.: 2,438 ft.
    • Desc.: 1,587 ft.
    • Max. Alt: 6,749 ft.
    • Min. Alt: 4593 ft.

    GPS (estimated)

    • Length: 8.74 miles
    • Duration: 6 hours 23 minutes
    • Asc.: 3,511 ft.
    • Desc.: 2,660 ft.
    • Max. Alt: 6,800 ft.
    • Min. Alt: 4593 ft.

    Back at the Car

    It was hot when we reached the car around 2:45 p.m. We took our packs off and went looking for a little food inside the Sunrise Day Lodge.

    We wandered around, buying gifts, food, and something to drink. I found little pink binoculars for my daughter and a shirt for my brother-in-law who, I know, mowed the lawn at my house while I was gone. My brother bought a slew of gifts for his kids.

    I was shocked to not find coffee. I was looking for caffeine, but there was none to be found. I opted for a Dr. Pepper (and I never drink Dr. Pepper) just for a little caffeine on the drive out. I bought a hot dog and sat down on a bench outside to devour it.

    In 2017, the day lodge had a lot more food options. Now, in 2024, the part that previously had food was blocked off. I don't know if it was under construction or if they just didn't have it open anymore. Regardless, I still enjoyed my hot dog.

    I felt great. Everything with the trip had gone so well. It was the middle of July, the middle of summer, and we were heading home.

    Aprè Hike

    We still owed my brother a beer so we went into Enumclaw to someplace that wasn't open because it was Monday. Instead, we opted for Headworks, a brewery in Enumclaw we had been to before. They have a food truck outside serving burgers and a lot of seating inside, oh, and good beer.

    What did I miss while in the woods? Only that someone tried to shoot and kill Donald Trump on July 13 (day 5). Thankfully, the bullet only grazed his ear.

    Jordan's family joined us as we enjoyed some heavy beers, burgers, and fries. It was time to debrief, go through my gear, look at pictures, shower, and—tomorrow—drive back home to Spokane.

    Conclusion

    Gear

    I started planning this trip in the winter. I pulled my gear out, set it on a ping pong table, and practiced packing my backpack, trying to go light while being prepared for whatever conditions we might have to deal with. I tinkered with different options and bought some new items. I started the trip with a pack weighing 32.2 lbs which included a food bag weighing about 8 lbs. Naturally, at the end of the trip I re-weighed my pack at 23.3 lbs.

    The weather was perfect. To think that we hardly saw a single cloud the entire seven days on the trail is remarkable and it meant some of the gear I brought I didn't have to use (i.e., raincoat, backpack cover).

    Food

    I used a spreadsheet to help plan my meals and manage calories for each day. I wanted to average 3,000 calories per day. Additionally, I brought an extra 2,000 calories. My planned calorie intake for each day was:

    • Day 1: 2,186
    • Day 2: 3,626
    • Day 3: 3,516
    • Day 4: 3,636
    • Day 5: 3,436
    • Day 6: 3,666
    • Day 7: 1,320
    • Extra: 1,910

    Total Calories: 23,296

    I ate all my food, including the extra food. I weighed myself the day before and the day after the trip and the difference was within 1 lb.

    Itinerary

    As for the day-to-day planning, as soon as I found out I won the lottery I began mapping out different camp combinations and checking what was available. After making my reservation I got to work building an itinerary, researching each day, possible problems, camps, and side trips to explore. I checked the Mount Rainier webcams and various trail report resources (WTA and AllTrails) for updates daily leading up to the start.

    I used Google Docs to create and share the itinerary, which ended up being 25-30 pages long after adding in maps, images, and other formatting.

    It makes me smirk thinking about how I originally only planned to do three nights. I couldn't have been more pleased with my decision to complete all six nights.

    I calculated the mileage on the itinerary, in terms of mileage on the actual trail, at 46.8 miles, which is right about half of the Wonderland Trail length.

    Adding up the actual GPS data using the route tracks from the trip, and removing any side trips, I calculated our total stats on the trail at:

    • Miles: 51.21 mi
    • Incline: 19,455 ft.
    • Decline: 15,788 ft.

    If you include all the side trips I went on:

    • Miles: 64.33 mi
    • Incline: 24,216 ft.
    • Decline: 20,549 ft.

    It was an unforgettable trip and I am so lucky I was able to go on it with family and have such a good time. I've almost done all the sides of the Wonderland Trail. In the future, I hope to complete the last remaining side, the south side.


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